Kathmandu

We arrived in Kathmandu via Delhi. The weather was warm and sunny and we had great views of the Himalayas on the way in – and all the brick factories with their tall chimneys. Kathmandu airport was an experience but not unpleasant, just a little chaotic, with the visa applications area a bit of a job creation exercise. As we emerged from the airport I saw a red board with a Lion on it being held within a sea of young men greeting arrivals in the hope of getting a tip. We headed for him and tried to avoid our luggage being picked up by more men hoping for more tips. He found Kym our guide and, after a 'Namaste' and a couple of prayer scarves wrapped around us, we were whisked away in a car. Driving the very bumpy and noisy streets to the hotel was useful acclimatisation to the Kathmandu traffic chaos that is the norm in the city. The Shangri Las was a nice hotel in a good location, just a 15 minute walk from the bustle of Thamel, but affording a bit of welcome peace at night.

All the other tourists got taxis everywhere but we chose to walk, even in the areas outside of main tourist drag. We looked a little conspicuous but it was good to see how Kathmandu really is for the people who live there. We did all the usual that Thamel has to offer, Durbar Square, all the shops and stalls and the bars and restaurants. We walked to the outlying temples, including the Monkey Temple, high up with its great views of the sprawling city.

We also walked to the temple complex at Pashupatinath where, after touring the temples and grounds, we sat on the hill and watched the funeral pyres burning all along the river.

We found Kathmandu dirty, noisy and smelly. We also saw immense deprivation on our travels walking the city. Yet, the city is full of character, has an enduring charm and the inhabitants are the most wonderfully friendly people, welcoming but discreet and very respectful. We had some great food amongst the restaurants, with our favourite being Dechenling.

We ate in Rum Doodles, the haunt of expedition climbers, with all the 100’s of footprints bearing the signatures of climbers and trekkers including, poignantly, some climbers like Rob Hall who have perished in the Himalayas.  On the night before we left we were introduced to our fellow trekkers, who we wouldn’t see for a couple of days, as we were heading into the mountains early. Rowena and Samir from Bombay, Vivec from Singapore and Jason from Sydney – we would truly be an international party!!